Skylight Installation in San Jose, CA

A skylight installation starts with the roof deck, not the glass. We open the sheathing, frame between two rafters, and build a curb that matches your roof pitch so rain sheds instead of pooling.

On shingle roofs we lace step flashing and counter-flashing into the field course, add a self-adhered ice-and-water shield under the curb, and finish with a flexible sealant that survives San Jose summers.

Underlayment matters more than most people expect. We run synthetic underlayment across the opening, tie it into the old roofing felt or tar paper, and leave the work waterproof before the first winter storm.

Building code sets minimum curb height, fastener type, and the number of nails per shingle tab. We pull the permit, meet the inspector, and hand you the signed paperwork at the end.

Insulation and ventilation decide whether a new skylight sweats. We check attic insulation clearance plus existing ridge vent or soffit vent airflow before we cut anything.

Fixed skylights suit bedrooms and halls. Vented skylights open for airflow, solar-powered blinds cut summer heat, and a sun tunnel often brightens a windowless bath for less money.

We'll also cover energy efficiency and where green roofing fits. Solar-powered blinds cut heat gain, and cool-toned glass keeps a room usable in August instead of by 10 a.m.

Cost depends on roof pitch, how many courses we disturb, whether the frame lands over a truss, and whether the ceiling needs patching. Most jobs run one to two days.

What We Check on Different Roof Types

• On asphalt shingle and architectural shingle roofs we lift two courses, and on three-tab shingle or wood shake we replace cracked pieces instead of reusing them.
• Cedar shake and slate need a metal pan under the curb, since those surfaces never seal tight against a surface-mount frame.
• Clay tile, concrete tile, and tile roofs in general get a flashed pan plus careful break-and-replace on the surrounding pieces.
• A metal panel, standing-seam panel, or corrugated panel roof uses a factory curb set over purlins, battens, and counterbattens.
• Low-slope sections with a membrane, TPO, EPDM, or PVC membrane take a different curb detail, and a built-up roof or modified bitumen surface needs torch work and a flood coat.
• Plywood or OSB decking gets checked for soft spots before anything is fastened, because a curb needs solid anchoring.
• Dormer, hip, gable, gambrel, and mansard transitions each need their own flashing detail where the new curb meets the old plane.
• On commercial roofing, parapet, scupper, coping, and snow guard details get the same attention, since that flat assembly drains differently.

Parts and Tools We Handle on Every Job

• We inspect the drip edge, eave, soffit, fascia, and rake or verge for old water tracking, then check the ridge, ridge cap, and ridge vent on the way down.
• Chimney flashing, pipe flashing or a pipe boot, and the vent boot at each penetration get resealed while we're already up there.
• Gutter, downspout, valley, and overhang positions matter, and a canopy or awning can shade the glass you just paid for.
• Insulation and a vapor barrier under the curb keep the interior side dry, and an attic fan or soffit vent helps the glass stay clear.
• We anchor the curb with screws and ring-shank nails, top the laps with mastic and roof cement, and caulk the trim line last.
• Tear-off uses a pry bar and a roofing shovel, layout uses a roofing square, and fastening runs off an air compressor and nail gun.